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Fears of rising baguette prices pose crunch for the French

Bread crunch has been linked to a 30% worldwide increase in the price of wheat since September
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Bakers Ludovic Laurent, left, and Hugo Hardy Baguettes prepares baguettes to be sold at Bigot bakery in Versailles, west of Paris, Tuesday, Oct. 26, 2021. A worldwide increase in wheat prices after bad harvests in Russia is forcing French bakers to raise the price of that staple of life in France the baguette. Boulangeries around France have begun putting up signs warning their customers of an increase in the price of their favourite bread due to rising costs. (AP Photo/Michel Euler

A hike in the cost of wheat is alarming French households who fear a possible rise in the price of the prized baguette, seen by many as a barometer of the country鈥檚 economic health.

Many boulangeries around France are putting up signs, warning customers that the long, crunchy staple could be going up in price by 3 to 5 centimes (4 to 6 cents), from its average of about 89 centimes (just over $1).

鈥淎lthough that might not seem like a lot, it鈥檚 a huge increase. The baguette is precious. It has only gone up 23 centimes in the last 20 years,鈥 said Dominique Anract, president of the French Confederation of Bakeries and Pastry Shops.

The bread industry crunch has been linked to a 30% worldwide increase since September in the price of wheat 鈥 one of the baguette鈥檚 key ingredients 鈥 after bad harvests in Russia, Anract said. that are making ovens more expensive to operate are also a factor, Anract and other experts say, with businesses and consumers worldwide already feeling the heat of higher prices from supply chain and labor constraints.

Energy prices are affecting the Italian food chain, too, with expectations they will push up the cost of drying grains. That could eventually raise the price of bread and pasta at supermarkets, but meat and dairy aisles are even more vulnerable as beef and dairy farmers are forced to pay more for grain to feed their animals and pass the cost along to customers.

France鈥檚 67 million people are voracious consumers of the baguette. The country鈥檚 鈥淏read Observatory鈥 鈥 a venerable institution that closely follows the fortunes of the famed 65-centimeter (26-inch) loaf 鈥 notes that the French munch through 320 baguettes every second. That鈥檚 an average of half a baguette per person per day and 10 billion every year.

鈥淓ven three centimes higher is dire when played out nationwide,鈥 Anract said. 鈥淭he baguette is our emblem, our symbol, the thermometer of our economy. It鈥檚 perhaps like Britain鈥檚 pint of milk. It can never go beyond one euro.鈥

Marc Cohen, a 35-year-old father of two, said outside his local baker in the Le Marais area of central Paris that rising baguette prices 鈥渨ould be a pain in the neck. Costs are going up everywhere. Even 5 centimes is a lot because we get one every day. That adds up over the year, and next year it will probably be the same.鈥

Calling it 鈥渄epressing news,鈥 43-year-old engineer Franck Nguyen said 鈥渢he baguette is an institution in France. If the price goes up by too much, there will be big opposition.鈥

Although the baguette seems like the quintessential French product, it was said to have been invented by Vienna-born baker August Zang in 1839. Zang put in place France鈥檚 steam oven, making it possible to produce bread with a brittle crust yet fluffy interior.

The product鈥檚 zenith did not come until the 1920s, with the advent of a French law preventing bakers from working before 4 a.m. The baguette鈥檚 long, thin shape meant it could be made more quickly than its stodgy cousins, so it was the sole bread that bakers could make in time for breakfast.

French Culture Minister Roselyne Bachelot has even nominated the baguette for a place on UNESCO鈥檚 Intangible Cultural Heritage List next year.

Baguettes are such serious business that bread observers say bakers around France are willing to sacrifice other bread products to maintain the price of the baguette, by spreading around extra costs.

That worries 24-year-old student Sandrine Boyer. She said she spends most of her bakery money on products other than baguettes and hopes 鈥渢hat the price of the breads in general will not go up as well.鈥

Bread has often stirred French passions. Marie Antoinette鈥檚 famously misattributed quote, 鈥淟et them eat cake,鈥 was one of the supposed triggers of the 1789 French Revolution.

Yet Anract was sanguine about the immediate future.

鈥淚n the Revolution, there was a penury of bread, there was not enough of it,鈥 he said. 鈥淚t wasn鈥檛 about the price of bread. We鈥檙e not at that stage yet!鈥

鈥擳homas Adamson, The Associated Press





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