- Words by Joanne Peters Photography by Lia Crowe

Oysters on the half shell, snow crab, giant prawns, silky sablefish, divers鈥� scallops, king salmon sushi, ahi tuna tartare and freshly harvested uni (sea urchin, a seasonal local delicacy): these are just some of menu items at . To dine here is to take a deep dive into coastal culture.

Step past the outdoor patio aglow with glass-encased fireplaces into the Alberni Street restaurant, and you鈥檒l see the seafood and oyster bar in the centre of an O-shaped bar, a dedicated sushi bar, and the eye-catching open kitchen. The room itself dazzles, with shimmery hanging d茅cor resembling sun-dappled ocean ripples and wall art that evokes seas of swimming golden fish.

For chef Stefan Hartmann, culinary director of Glowbal Restaurant Group (of which Coast is one of nine dining establishments), the exquisite flavours of so much ocean bounty are alluring鈥攅ven after three decades working in professional kitchens, including time spent running his own Michelin-starred restaurant in his native Germany.

鈥淪omething that really excites me is when you open a case of fresh fish and see and smell this beautiful product鈥攜ou鈥檙e like, 鈥榳ow,鈥欌�� Stefan says. 鈥淚t still inspires me.鈥�

Born in Uelzen, Stefan grew up in a small town called Rendsburg, north of Hamburg near the Danish border. As a child, he spent summer vacations with his uncle, a chef who ran a countryside inn.

鈥淗e used to make chocolate truffles with me when I was nine years old,鈥� Stefan says. 鈥淗is stories from the kitchen inspired me to follow in his footsteps.鈥�

Stefan gained experience working for acclaimed chefs in some of Europe鈥檚 top restaurants, including Michelin-rated Vau in Berlin and Jacques Maximin in Vence, France before opening the award-winning Hartmanns in Berlin in 2007. He went on to open Berlin鈥檚 Marriott Hotel before moving to Vancouver in late 2014 to launch the now-defunct Bauhaus Restaurant. Prior to joining Glowbal Restaurant Group, he was regional executive chef at Tacofino and freelanced during the pandemic.

While he brought with him to Canada the world鈥檚 very highest culinary standards, Stefan says no matter where he鈥檚 cooking, the elemental principles are the same.

鈥淎t the end of the day, your work ethic is your work ethic, whether you have a Michelin star or not,鈥� Hartmann says. 鈥淚f you鈥檙e making French fries in a burger shop or making a souffl茅 in a Michelin-star restaurant, you have to handle it the same way. You need to be persistent. Disciplined. Willing to learn. I鈥檓 still learning. When you鈥檙e always striving for the best, you can still find mistakes in your work to get better.鈥�

Specializing in fresh, seasonal seafood, Coast鈥檚 menu highlights are always changing; daily specials and chef鈥檚 oyster selections are recommended. Among Stefan鈥檚 personal favourites, however, is the restaurant鈥檚 succulent sablefish, marinated in white miso and served with maitake mushroom, baby bok choy and garlic pur茅e. Seafood towers take the dining experience to the next level, with items like scallop ceviche, mussels, clams, snow crab, Atlantic lobster, giant prawns, oysters, sashimi and nigiri.

Then there is Coast鈥檚 take-home Signature Sushi Box, for six or more people, with gems like mango California rolls with Dungeness crab and avocado; ahi tuna, hamachi, sockeye salmon, and spot prawn sashimi; nigiri featuring ika (cuttlefish), ikura (salmon roe) and more; and battera (pressed sushi), with items like anago (saltwater eel) and saba (mackerel).

Stefan, for whom the one ingredient he couldn鈥檛 live without is good salt, says that a leading food trend that鈥檚 here to last is a focus on sustainability.

鈥淚 feel that more and more owners and kitchen leaders are thinking about their environmental impact, and I think that it is an important and necessary food trend鈥攐ne that we all need to improve on and get better at,鈥� he says, noting that Coast sources Ocean Wise seafood wherever possible.

Beyond excellent fish and seafood (plus prime steak direct from sister restaurant Black+Blue), Stefan says that what makes the restaurant stand apart is the staff. He is heartened to see culinary artists so dedicated to their craft, especially amid the challenges of the pandemic.

鈥淚鈥檓 happiest at work when I see my team exceed expectations and individuals grow,鈥� he says. 鈥淲orking in a busy seafood restaurant means our ingredients are always fresh. Seafood in any presentation is our specialty. But it鈥檚 the people that work for us that make the restaurant so unique.鈥�

Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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